Sage 5126-4 Z-AXIS |
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Sage 5126-4 Z-AXIS The Spot More Fall Chinooks Fly Tiers Rendezvous All pictures are Mouse-over. |
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Sage
5126-4 Z-AXIS Field Test Report By: Josh Linn |
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One of the nice things about working at The Fly Fishing Shop, is that you have access to a lot of great gear. And anyone that knows me, knows I like gear. Last week I got a package from George Cook; a new 5126-4 Z axis rod along with some of the new Rio AFS shooting heads. Well it seemed like I should go put this stuff to the test. I contacted my good friend Eric Gunter and we headed to the Deschutes with the 5126-4. It was a cool crisp fall morning, the kind of morning that feels like you can smell steelhead. We pushed out of the boat launch in the pitch black and got to the first run about an hour before light. We brewed coffee in the boat and we hunkered down trying to keep warm while anticipating the morning's fishing. Our conversation led to steelhead and then on to tackle. The reel on the 5126-4 Z-Axis was loaded it up with a 5/6 (340-grain) AFS shooting head a new 10’ floating Rio VersiLeader. This was attached to Varivas shooting line loaded on an antique Ari Hart reel (Hey, you gotta' have a few old neat reels). Lately I've been fishing smaller spey rods and this seemed like a good combo for Deschutes steelhead. When we could see well enough to walk, we got moving. I took the upper run and Eric moved into the lower run. This time of year I always start fishing with a skating fly because steelhead taking flies on the surface is so exciting. A Purple Muddler was "riffle-hitched" on the end of my leader. When you are as young as I am, everyone wants to give you advice. One of my friends seems to think I should spend more time fishing water in close to shore. I have caught many steelhead from the upper run, but never close to the bank. But, I thought I would humor him even though he wasn’t there and started casting short and stayed on the bank. Watching a muddler wake across the top first thing in the morning has a focusing effect. I fished all the way through the run and got nothing, then walked back to the top of the run and waded out into my normal starting spot. Cast after cast, I watched the muddle groove a nice wake across the smooth surface. I was stepping, casting and got into a rhythm. Watching a fly skating across the water in cadence is nearly hypnotizing. As the fly skated across the bucket, I got tense with anticipation. Each cast fished well, but nothing happened. I hadn’t heard anything from Eric so I guess he was doing about as good as I was. I got out and walked back to the top of the run and changed flies, tying on a Green Butt Skunk. I waded back out to my staring spot. Stripped out the head of the fly line and made my first cast. I stripped out 3 more feet of line and made another cast. This setup was casting effortlessly especially now that I had taken off the air resistant muddler. I was getting into my rhythm Casting about 70’ cast step, cast, step. I was in the bucket again. Everything was feeling good. The fly was turning over. The swing was looking good. I was starting to get tense with anticipation again. I made another cast let it swing and the line came tight and I felt a little throb, dropped the loop and felt the line come tight again. I set the hook and drove the fly home. The fish didn’t like that and was straight into the backing. I had that 5 wt bent to the handle. This felt good. It was a heavy duty tug of war. Finally I was gaining ground on the fish. The fish never came to the surface of the water. It felt like a bug buck steelhead giving me lots of head shakes and little runs. When the fish came parallel to me, I was still standing mid-river and was envisioning landing it out there. I got the leader to the tip of the rod and started lifting. I wanted to see what this fish was, but couldn’t move the thing, so I clamped down on the line and kept lifting. Finally it came to the top and looked big. Then as soon as it came close it ran off again. I got it back up to me and started getting it in closer, lifting it as hard as possible. I thought I might break the little rod. You never know the limits of a new rod especially one this little. The fish came back to the top and I could see it now, and it looked to be about 10-12lbs. & pretty bright, but it looked different. It all made sense now why I didn’t get anything on my first 2 passes. It was a male fall Chinook. I headed for the bank. I had never landed a fall Chinook on the Deschutes before, and I didn’t want to screw this up. The fish was exhausted and so was I. I bent down and firmly grabbed it by the wrist of the tail. I was in disbelief was this really happening. I was in such awe I forgot to call Eric to get a picture. Oh well. I released the fish back to the river and just sat there for a moment, looking down at my new 5126-4 Z-axis and knew it was a rod I would fish a lot. 5126-4 round-2 |
| 5126-4 Z-AXIS |
Length: 12' 6" Line: 5 Pieces: 4 |
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| Summer
steelhead, grilse and larger trout rod . Will throw both floating and
sinking tip lines. Fishes well with both 5/6 Windcutter and 6/7 AFS lines. Rod weight: 6 1/8 Ounces |
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| Item |
Series
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Line Wt
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Action | Handle | Price | To Top |
| 6126-4 | Z-AXIS | 6 | Fast | D | $740 | |
| Fly Tying In The Bright Spot |
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A guy that camps along a roadless river for ten days at a time might run out of a favorite fly pattern or might want to tie something new to try. Or maybe tying flies is simply therapy. What ever the reason for tying flies in camp at night, it is much easier with a well aimed head lamp like the Black Diamond Spot. After two full seasons and many hours of use the Spot helps keep everything in sight; from the boat very early in the morning, to the call of nature in the middle of the night, to tying flies for the next day. It really helps when you can see what you are doing. The Spot's the best. |
| Black Diamond Head Lamp, Spot Model | ||||
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| Focus your attention on what's
ahead with the new Spot. The only batteries-in-front headlamp available
with a one-watt HyperBright Bulb and three SuperBright LEDs, the Spot's
compact exterior disguises its powerful punch, providing far-reaching
illumination for climbers, skiers and backcountry travelers. We've refined
our reflector to increase the HyperBright Bulb's spotlight beam and
clustered it with three SuperBright LEDs for bright proximity lighting.
Powered by three AAA batteries and with a tiltable housing, the sleek Spot
has intelligent circuitry that gives three brightness settings and
includes strobe illumination in either mode. The Spot is a lightweight,
dependable and powerful option for serious users when success is on the
line.
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| Item | Description | Model | Price | To Top |
| 620586P | Black Diamond Head Lamp | Spot, Pearl | $42.95 | |
| 620586T | Black Diamond Head Lamp | Spot, Titanium | $42.95 | |
| Fly Fishing
for Fall Chinook By: Dean Finnerty - Part 3 of 3 |
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In the first part of this series we discussed the “where” of locating active salmon that are easily enticed into taking various fly patterns. In the second installment we covered the “when” part of the equation at being successful fly fishers for fall Chinook. We also discussed appropriate tackle selection for rods, reels, lines and leaders. In this, the final part of the series we’ll cover the “nuts and bolts” of fly-fishing for fall Chinook, the techniques that work and the patterns the fish love to eat! As previously stated, fly tackle is ideally suited to presenting many of the baitfish |
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imitations salmon find irresistible when presented in those areas where the salmon are still actively feeding or had been just days prior. Usually the best areas for the fly fishermen are the shallow water areas (less than 10 feet in depth) that the salmon are using to make the transition between saltwater and fresh. Depending upon current speed, which in turn is dictated by the flow of the river entering the bay or estuary, and by the effects of tides, the angler makes his line choice. This is usually a shooting head with intermediate “slime line” if using a single hand (conventional) fly rod. |
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The presentation used most frequently is the proven wet fly swing. Care must be taken to position yourself far enough upstream of the suspected salmon lies to prevent dragging line, leader or fly across the backs of schooling salmon and to prevent “flossing” them. This is especially true in low flows, either caused by a lack of rain or minus low tides. When hundreds of large salmon get “stacked like cordwood” in these areas, it is difficult to present the fly without foul hooking them and all efforts should |
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a be made to avoid this obvious un-sportsman like conduct. I always like to start short and gradually lengthen my casts until I’m covering the water from bank to bank, or I have out an amount of line I can comfortable cast all day. Once I’ve reached this distance, and I’m able to step down through the run, I begin making a cast or two and taking a step, repeated by a cast or two and another step. When the fly reaches the end of its drift near the shore I’m fishing from, I retrieve my fly line with a series of short, erratic retrieves of the fly. I try to imagine what a wounded baitfish would look like, swimming near shore and mimic that with my retrieves. Often times a salmon will annihilate the fly with an arm-jarring grab! When current speeds are nearly non-existent which occurs routinely in the lower tidewater reaches of these rivers during the slack tides, it becomes necessary to impart action to your fly during the whole cast. This is some of my favorite fishing time. The salmon are on the prowl, actively seeking that final, tasty little morsel of herring, anchovy or sardine before heading upriver to spawn. I simply make my cast towards the area I want to cover with my fly pattern. Once the fly is out on a straight, tight line, I begin retrieving using a series of erratic, short pulls of various speeds, always trying to mimic a fleeing or injured baitfish. The salmon will sometimes nip and peck at the fly like a small trout, other times they’ll nearly rip the rod from your grip when they attack the fly! Its important that you manage your retrieved line in an orderly fashion so that it can easily shoot back through the guides going the other way when a salmon is hooked. Failing to manage your line will usually cause a hooked fish to leave with disastrous results, especially if your tippet is 20-pound maxima. A lot of damage will occur to your rod, or at least the guides before the tippet parts if it tangles. My favorite patterns are herring, anchovy and sardine patterns of various lengths and shades of olive, blue, purple, chartreuse, and black. Synthetic materials added to layers of various colors of long, died bucktail makes very realistic and appealing patterns. They vary in length from 2” to over 5”. There are two characteristics I incorporate into all of my baitfish imitations. One, they all have a light color on the bottom or belly of the fly with a dark color on the top or back of the fly. Two, they all have some type of “eye” incorporated into the head of the fly. These features I feel are very important to any pattern I design for use as a saltwater or salmon fly. Without these features, I’m just not fishing with confidence. Other patterns that have proven successful for me over the years are Clouser Minnows in black/chartreuse, blue/white, purple/white and green/white. Purple dredgers and a variety of small shrimp and crab “spawn” patterns round out the bulk of my fly patterns. If you haven’t tried fall Chinook on a fly yet, make this the year your give it a try. You won’t be disappointed; in fact, you may even be a little surprised at how effective a tool your fly rod can be on these magnificent game fish! Anyone with questions or comments, or wanting to book a trip with Dean are encouraged to contact him through his website located at www.5riversguideservice.com |
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Northwest Fly Tiers Rendezvous |
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The Fly Fishing Shop, Welches, OR
1(800)
266-3971
Fish long & prosper,
Mark & Patty