|Blue Wing Olive (BWO)
Many different mayfly species are predominately olive colored. Others which are gray, yellow or brown have variants towards the olive tones. BWO Baetis subspecies are the norm, but Pale Morning Dun and Pale Evening Dun mayflies can be light olive or light green. Callibaetis are usually gray or brown, but in some very rich lakes they can be light olive on the belly. March Browns aren't always brown. We have seen variations that are blue wing olive tones. Early spring hatches of BWO mayflies can reach blizzard proportions on some rivers such as the Deschutes and Yakima. Cloudy days usually produce better hatches than bright days. The best hatches and rises come on days with soft rainy afternoons.
Olive CDC Loop Wing Emerger
Deadly on back eddy sippers. Can be a cripple or an emerger. The translucent, pearlescent bead in the thorax provides ballast and a realistic gas bubble simulation.
|1061-18||Blue Wing Olive CDC Loop Wing Emerger||18||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
Olive Sparkle Dun
The Antron tail simulates a trailing nymphal shuck. Some trout will target crippled insects. This fly simulates a mayfly that is "hung-up" in the shuck.
|1062-14||Blue Wing Olive Sparkle Dun||14||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|1062-16||Blue Wing Olive Sparkle Dun||16||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|1062-18||Blue Wing Olive Sparkle Dun||18||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
Olive Hackle Stacker Sparkle Dun
Try dressing the hackle and letting the body and tail go wet. This fly is kind of a cross between a floating nymph and a crippled dun.
|Q1023-16||Blue Wing Olive Hackle Stacker Sparkle Dun||16||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|Q1023-18||Blue Wing Olive Hackle Stacker Sparkle Dun||18||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
Dress the wing and hackle and wet down the body and tail with saliva. This fly is easy to see. If the trout are really spooky, trim the wing with your leader clipper.
|Q300-16||Blue Wing Olive Paranymph||16||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|Q300-18||Blue Wing Olive Paranymph||18||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|Q300-20||Blue Wing Olive Paranymph||20||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
Olive Fluttering Mayfly Cripple
This Bob Quigly pattern can be the answer when trout are selectively feeding on cripples or emergers.
|Q1002-16||Blue Wing Olive Fluttering Mayfly Cripple||16||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|Q1002-18||Blue Wing Olive Fluttering Mayfly Cripple||18||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
This pattern rides a little lower than the one above it.
|1069-16||Blue Wing Olive Cripple||16||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|1069-18||Blue Wing Olive Cripple||18||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
Never be without every size of this fly when fishing any of our western rivers during the early season. This fly is especially good for representing species with darker colored wings.
|1076-14||Blue Wing Olive Thorax||14||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|1076-16||Blue Wing Olive Thorax||16||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|1076-18||Blue Wing Olive Thorax||18||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
Olive Loop Wing Paradun
Possibly the best BWO dry fly pattern for matching species with lighter colored wings.
|Q210-14||Blue Wing Olive Loop Wing Paradun||14||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|Q210-16||Blue Wing Olive Loop Wing Paradun||16||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|Q210-18||Blue Wing Olive Loop Wing Paradun||18||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|Q210-20||Blue Wing Olive Loop Wing Paradun||20||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
This is a have to have pattern when fishing western streams and lakes. The wing is blue dun colored poly, which give the fly superior floatation.
|1066-14||Blue Wing Olive Parachute||14||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|1066-16||Blue Wing Olive Parachute||16||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|1066-18||Blue Wing Olive Parachute||18||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
Wing Olive , TwiLight Fluorescent Blue Wing
Because of the bright fluorescent blue wing, this unorthodox looking pattern is easier to see on overcast days than more conventional colored flies..
|1067-14||Blue Wing Olive Parachute, TwiLight||14||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|1067-16||Blue Wing Olive Parachute, TwiLight||16||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|1067-18||Blue Wing Olive Parachute, TwiLight||18||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
Olive Pearl Wing Spinner
This spinner pattern works under a wide range of conditions for both lakes and streams. It floats well and gives a very life like silhouette.
|01100-14||Blue Wing Olive Pearl Wing Spinner||14||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|01100-16||Blue Wing Olive Pearl Wing Spinner||16||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
|01100-18||Blue Wing Olive Pearl Wing Spinner||18||3 for $5.25||-->SALE ENDED|
Boat (Part Two)
By: J. Morgan Jones
After spending a good chunk of the winter building the boat, dealing with seemingly endless emergencies, river blow outs and what have you, we have at last transported the "fine furniture" to the river, and used it for its intended purpose.
| Floating down the
river and fishing. The "maiden fishing voyage" was to the Deschutes
river, as it is the only river that I am passingly familiar with, it
is open to trout fishing this time of year and I know how to get there
without much outside help. All crucial things for the "maiden fishing
How was it, you ask? I¹m getting there. The main thing, for those of you that need to get to the bottom line quickly, is that the boat survived and will (or should) make many more trips in the near future. And it¹s nice. Just looking at the boat at anchor was hard to explain, but I am pleased. The odd part is that I was not really proud of having built it, I was just pleased to look at it. I think that I would feel the same if you owned it. It looks nice is what I am trying to say, all on it¹s own. It is a good thing.
It is smooth and quiet on the river. I had others on board that have a great deal of experience in these matters, so this is not my own opinion. Maneuvers well, rides good in the rollers and stayed dry in the white water, at least what we went through. I realize that there will be a great deal to learn about river drifting this year, learning to let the river work for me, getting the timing and distance thing down, but I think that the boat will do just fine. I even enjoyed letting someone else row so I could just sit in the boat and take it all in. All graceful lines and different woods, bits of hardware here and there. It really seems quite intricate for now. I hope that vision never changes.
This was to be a follow-up to a previous article about building the boat, so I suppose that I should get to it. I liked floating down the river in it. Really enjoyed looking back at the boat while we were on the bank fishing ( bet that I missed a few strikes from not paying attention to my line.). It¹s a good looking boat.
|The important thing was that it transported myself and two friends down the river to some decent fishing. We caught fish at most every place that we stopped. Shared lunch, swapped stories and some good boating information and pretty much dealt with all the things that good fishing friends deal with throughout a fine day of fishing. Exactly what I was looking for in a boat. I think that it is going to be worth the effort. The things that we work at usually are.|
Casting for Steelhead and Salmon:
Rule of Spey Casting #2:
Once you have mastered the basic power stroke:
· Once the proper mechanics of the power stroke have been ingrained, you should practice leading the cast with your pelvis. The pelvis should slide forward to start the forward cast. Remember to keep your upper body and head quiet, and not to flex at the waist. The subtle forward slide of the pelvis is one of the secrets to effortless long casts and casting a tight loop into the wind, and is employed by all good Spey casters. As we will soon see, the forward slide of the pelvis is also a crucial timing mark for the forward cast.
Once mastered, you will see that the forward casting motion, or power stroke, will be identical for all of your right handed (right hand up) casts. It is vital that you strive to perfect this motion.
Having mastered the basic forward casting motion, it is now time to learn the “Switch Cast”, or “Live Roll Cast”, which turns a dull, lifeless roll cast into a dynamic cast capable of throwing tremendous amounts of line. The Switch Cast is the fundamental building block for the Single Spey Cast, which is the most dynamic and energetic of the Spey casts. Key concepts we’ll cover in this section include the Lift, the Loop, and the Grip, or Anchor Point.
· To animate the forward roll cast, continue facing downstream, and strip out an additional 20 feet of line, so you now have about 60 feet of line dangling, or on the “hand down” in front of you. If you try to roll cast this amount of line, you will find that the end of the line will not likely ever clear the water. We must now learn to aerialize the line with a Spey “backcast” (also known as an “underhand throw”) to form a dynamic loop of line which we will use to execute the forward cast. From this point forward, all the Spey moves we will perform must be performed with the line under tension. Any sudden loss of tension in the line will result in a poor cast; indeed we will look at any loss of line tension during the cast as an indication of a problem.
· Beginning with the Switch cast, you will begin to appreciate one of the fundamental differences between the Spey cast and the overhead single hand cast: the Spey cast is performed with the line under constant tension. Potential energy stored in the rod during the Spey movements is balanced by energy stored in the line. This potential energy is put to use and converted to kinetic energy during the power stroke you just learned.
To facilitate clearing the line during the Loop, or backcast, the “Lift” is performed. The Lift is a relatively simple motion, but vital to casting well. In Spey casting, an ineffective or jerky Lift will result in the development of slack in the line during the cast, effectively destroying the cast before it is begun.
· To perform the Lift, it is vital that the rod be lifted towards the sky as horizontally as possible. The Lift must not involve hinging of the wrists, which will result in an exaggerated “È” shaped belly or loop of line generated on the backcast, loss of tension, and an excessively large, messy, and tangled Grip. A “È” shaped loop will ultimately result in a messy Grip, severe frustration, and fouled leaders.
· The Lift is performed by simply raising the rod as horizontally as possible towards the sky, with the rod tip angled skyward slightly. Both arms must participate in the lift, and there must be no hinging. The motion is very similar to that which you would use raising a shotgun to your right shoulder, cross–handed. The Lift may be performed as slowly as you would like, and must never be rushed.The purpose of the Lift is to clear as much line off the water as possible, while simultaneously placing the rod at maximal mechanical advantage at the initiation of the backcast to form a smoothly shaped Loop. A properly performed Lift will greatly improve the distances that can be cast, and is essential for proper turnover of the end of the fly line and leader at the end of the cast. A poorly performed Lift will ultimately result in a disorganized crash of tangled line in the Grip, and, despite perfect form on the power stroke, result in a limp, useless, and ugly impotent turnover. This, in turn, will result in a hopelessly botched presentation.
The Backcast, or Loop (also known as the “Underhanded Throw”)
The Spey backcast, or Loop, is probably one of the more difficult Spey casting skills to master, as it relies considerably on the development of “feel”. The Loop is directly affected by a number of variables, including the speed of the current, the presence of a sinking tip, the length of line on the dangle, and a particular rod’s action and stiffness, but is well worth leaning well. Once mastered, the Loop move will be used on a great many types of Spey casts, including the switch cast, the single Spey, the square cut, the double Spey, the circle cast, and the snap “T”.
· The goal of the Loop, or Spey backcast, is to make the end of the line (and thus the fly) “jump” from the end of the downstream dangle to a spot just off the right shoulder (the Grip). A loop of line is thus formed, and anchored by the Grip; its shape will have a major impact on the success or failure of the resulting cast.
[Tip: Before describing the Loop, I think the following imagery is very helpful. Imagine you are a waiter in a restaurant. You are holding, with your right hand, a tray full of drinks balanced directly in front of you, held out with a straight arm, at eye level. Your goal is to bring the tray to a position just behind your right ear in one smooth motion, as fast as the drinks will let you, without spilling a drop, or causing any of the drink glasses to fall. If you practice this without the rod, you will find that the path taken by your right arm will have to swing out, then up, with your right wrist tilting the tray slightly towards you as it swings from in front to the behind your right ear. I know of no better analogy that quite matches the feel of the right hand.]
[Tip: To initially practice the Loop: following the Lift, take your left (lower) hand off the butt cap of the rod, and hold the rod butt cap against the right center of your chest, without dropping the rod tip. With your right hand only, swing the rod out laterally as you bring your right hand to its firing position behind your right ear. If done properly, you will notice that the butt cap of the rod will lose contact with your chest only at the end of the Loop, as the right hand finally reaches the firing position. The butt cap will not be very far from your chest; this is the correct position of the butt cap at the end of the loop. Simply grasp the butt cap at this position, and you should be in the ideal firing position. ]
· During the Loop, the rod tip will appear to dip between the Lift and its destination at the firing position; as viewed from the side, this is really an optical illusion, as the rod tip describes an arc laterally away from you, then rises to the firing position. The right hand doesn’t really drop during the formation of the Loop!Practice the Loop diligently. If done correctly, following a good lift, a smooth loop of line will be formed by this Underhanded Throw, causing the tip of the line to jump from its position downstream to a position just off your right shoulder. The resulting Loop of line formed as soon as the Grip, or Anchor Point lands near your shoulder should resemble a long tall “È” turned on it’s side (“É”).
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