Sunday, March 16, 1:00pm to 5:00pm
Fly Tying Program: Simple Soft Hackle Wet Flies
John Jones – Local Trout Fisherman 

* Soft Hackle Wet Flies

Finding the BARGAIN Rod
By J. Morgan Jones

The very first thing in finding a true bargain is having the ability to recognize a real bargain when you see it.  For myself, I need to use a rod for awhile before I am able to judge that it is a bargain or not.  If I were to qualify "bargain" as a price point only- the task becomes much easier.  You just look for a retailer that sells fly rods in a barrel.

If you are new to this sport, you will (or have) found a bewildering array of rods offered for sale for who knows how many reasons ( "It's Simply THE Best" or "YOU WILL own THIS rod" and "on and on") for prices that range from "get two they are so cheap" all the way to " I could find a good used car to go fishing with for this price!"  Eventually, you are going to wonder what price has to do with the actual rod.  How much is product and how much is hype? Depends. Slick catalogues cost a bunch.  Full page ads in the magazines are not inexpensive. Good materials cost more than second rate material.  Experienced craftsmen costs more than assembly line labor. The thing is, it's just business.  It's the way things work.  The search for excellence can and does contribute to the cost of the rod(s) that we covet.
Research and development of new rods cost a great deal, if it is done right.  I have seen a company (no names here) that developed a full line of fly fishing rods at an attractive price. Nice looking rods, not to forget that they cast well at the shop, but most of them were a dud on the water. As it turned out, they did some serious shortcuts on the research end, and I haven't seen their fly rods since.

When you look for a rod, you need to look for value, warranty and/or service, and dealer that you don't mind doing business with.  In short, anything that you deem to be important when considering a rod for purchase.

When I look for a rod, the most important things that I look for are availability, manufacturer background (or history as it were), reputation and last - value.  I know that that seems backwards, but this is an opinion that has been formed through years of buying lots of  rods one at a time.

Availability:  If I can't get it, I certainly cannot buy it and use it.

Background/ history: My favorite rod (s) are from a company that has been around long enough to establish a good reputation. Even those who do not prefer their rods acknowledge they ARE nice. And there are a few companies like this. If you should break this brand of rod, they will replace the broken section with an identical replacement, and make it the way the original was done. They can tell me when I should expect my rod back, and be correct! They can tell me everything about my rod, regardless of when it was made, clear back to the late twenties.

Reputation: This can say a lot about the actual product.  A few companies are known for making a  pretty much impeccable line of products, and they are known to stand behind them as well.

Value: Re-read the last two. Keep this in mind: "The value of what you hold in your hand is not always what you see with your eye."  Fact. Those who have been there before me already know this. Just a plain fact. The much debated point system used in the Olympics works here. You give points for each nuance of the entire rod. Highest score wins.  Easy.


This is how I judge a candidate:

Needs to look "right".  Needs to feel that way also.  It has to do the things that I expect it to do and in the way I want them done.  I need to feel like I am shaking hands with an old friend whenever I remove it from its case.  It needs to find the connection in my mind between the beauty of the fish and the incredible scope of the journey we are all taking in being fly fishers.  The people that we meet, and the places that we have gone. Things that we have learned, those who taught us, and sometimes those that we were able to teach. I demand a lot from a rod.

Value is probably best determined by each individual.  The amount of money involved IS a factor.  It can, and often is, a large factor in our reasoning process.  It plays a part in helping to make my choices.  Not being rich, or even perhaps comfortable by many standards, I think that there are times that  it's possible that I don't have a high enough respect for money (the truth is that I spent most of the money I have ever made on Women, Cars and Fly Fishing.  The rest got wasted somehow!.  Dollars are a part of value in my world--- and there are lots of things that I can't afford here but not the only part.)   In my mind (it's a small world, remember?)  I need a rod to be special to have real value.  Perhaps its just an ego problem, but it's the way things are.  I wish that REALLY GOOD rods weren¹t so expensive, but many are.  Another fact.  Sorry.

"The value of what you hold in your hand is not always what you see with your eye." There are times that the true value exceeds the price asked for. That's what I call a bargain.

Spey Casting for Steelhead and Salmon: An introduction to Gear and Techniques. (Part-3)

Way Yin, M.D.
Continued from: 03/03/03 "Insider"

A good Spey rod should possess a stiff butt section through the handle, with the stiffness extending perhaps 12-20 inches above the top of the cork.  A butt that is soft through the handle only serves only to lose potential energy stored during the loading phases of the cast, ultimately compromising both distance and accuracy.  Although the butt should be stiff, the lower and middle third of the rod should be capable of loading and storing the energy created during the cast, and therefore must flex to some degree.  A rod with a lower section that is too stiff will not easily transmit the “feel” of loading in the rod butt section during the cast, which is so critical in the development of good casting technique.  The overall action of the rod should be quite slow in comparison to single–handed rods.  The tip and top third of the rod should be stiff enough to handle directional changes in the cast, and not undergo a “nervous breakdown” under the tremendous torque placed upon it with change of direction; the upper section must also be substantial enough to lift a heavy sink tip from 80–100 feet away. The ideal overall action of the rod should be progressive, from mid-butt to tip, with a steady change in the radius of curvature under load.  The dampening action of the rod should be rapid, maximizing the translation of potential energy into kinetic energy during the power stroke of the cast.  Lastly, the rod must be durable.  A good casting rod is useless as fishing rod if it must be sent back for warranty repairs after every 25 casts!

In general, rods which are too stiff in the lower two thirds (i.e. rods that are too fast in action) tend to be extremely unforgiving to cast (especially during the rod loading phase), lack “feel”, and handle change of direction casts and sinking tips relatively poorly.  However, in an expert’s hands, fast rods are capable of casting impressive distances, generate crowd-pleasing tight loops with high line speeds, and single Spey extremely well.  Faster rods require greater skill, as the sensation of loading in the butt section is less apparent.  Although many novices may find them relatively easy to learn while casting short distances (50-60 feet) using heavy weight forward lines, on longer casts, lack of proper technique and feel will show quickly.  Fast-action rods may also require “up–weighting” of line, especially for the novice or intermediate caster. 

Generally, a rod that is too slow will handle a narrower range of line weights.  The rod will load more quickly, and provide the beginner with a better feel of rod loading during the cast.  However, a rod which flexes too deeply into the butt section will often hit a performance “wall” where longer casts, or casts with a heavy sinking tip become extremely difficult and unforgiving.  A slower action rod will generally cast a looser loop and cause a larger “shock dimple” to be transmitted down the line with longer casts, potentially problematic issues with longer casts and windy conditions.

James Bartschi, the President and rod designer for Scott Fly Rods, explains that a compromise must be struck between the transmission of rod loading to the fisher and the development of high line speeds and loop control.  He makes an analogy between two extremes: casting with a stiff steel pole versus casting with a long, soft leaf spring.  Under load, the steel rod, which is inflexible but a very efficient lever, will deliver greater terminal tip velocity, but have essentially no feel for the line.  The leaf spring, on the other hand, will transmit the feel of load placed on it very well, but will sacrifice tip velocity and control.  In reality, all Spey rods must compromise between these two extremes, and the relative action of a rod depends on where the meaningful junction between the “steel rod” and the “leaf spring” meet.

Under the dynamic loading of a Spey cast, careful observation of a rod will usually demonstrate a particular point at which the rod flexes maximally; this “kick point” is the area at which the rod is maximally deflected.  A good Spey rod will distribute this load over a longer section than a bad Spey rod; an overly pronounced kick point may cause the rod to “fold over” during extreme loading (e.g., while casting a heavy sinking tip or a very long line), increasing rod fatigue subsequent chances of rod breakage.

Ideally, a good Spey rod should be well balanced, and paraphrasing Goldilocks, have an action which is “not too fast, but not too slow”. The cork grip should be generous, and cover the top hand “sweet spot” of the rod.  The lower grip should be substantial, and have a pronounced knob or butt cap around which the lower palm should fit comfortably.  The “kick point”, or section of the rod which marks the beginning of useful butt flex, should be between about 40-60% up the height of the rod.  Rod deflection under load above and below the kick–point should be progressive throughout the rod, with no sudden changes or dead spots (especially at the ferrules).  The middle and tip section should be substantial enough to handle the torque generated with long casts, change of direction casts, and to pick up sinking tip lines, but not be so stiff as to detract from the smooth delivery of power to the line during the forward power stroke. 

Most Spey rods are available in three and four piece designs, and some companies are now making five and six piece rods specifically designed for carry–on airline travel.  Look for solidly built ferrules that fit snugly and smoothly, and high quality components in the guides and reel seat.  The tremendous torque place on the rod during casting will soon highlight any design or manufacturing faults at these potential weak spots on the rod.  I have often been surprised at the low quality components used on some premium offerings: look for a solidly constructed, locking, and heavily anodized reel seat, premium cork grip, high quality stripping and snake guides, and highest quality tip–top.  Top–of–the line rods typically retail between $700 to well over $1000; for that much money, you deserve top–drawer craftsmanship and a lifetime unconditional warranty.

Although the “Holy Grail” of the perfect “one rod does all” design remains elusive, there are many good rods currently available.  However, beware that not all rods within a manufacturer’s line may be equal in performance nor similar in action.  For example, a manufacturer’s 14 foot, 9 weight rod may be a total dud, but the 15 foot/10 weight rod in the same series may be a gem.  Alternatively, a manufacturer’s 8 weight 13’ rod may have a very slow, soft action, but their 10 weight 15’ rod may be rocket fast.  Also bear in mind that a rod which works well for an advanced Spey caster may not be ideal for the novice or intermediate.  A qualified instructor or expert Spey caster from your local shop should be able to guide the first–time purchaser towards a specific model, which will suit your local conditions. 

There are several excellent Spey rods available in the U.S. spanning a range of prices from a variety of rod builders. Numerous Spey rods are also available (after a bit of poking around) from the U.K.; these rods tend to be heavier and slower in action than their American counterparts.  It is particularly worthwhile carefully investigating the warranty history on any particular rod you may be interested in purchasing; I am aware of several particular models which are very prone to breakage.

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One-Day Winter Steelhead Fly fishing Schools
Take a drift boat ride down the Sandy River with: 
Mark Bachmann and Brian Silvey .

We want to give you maximum advantage by having as many fish hooked during this class as possible.  Nothing teaches you more about fishing than being where fish are being hooked and landed.
Emphasis will be on spey rod casting and sinking-tip line fishing, but will also cover single handed rod techniques. 
Learn how to locate steelhead water and how to approach it. Watch an expert guide as he fishes and discloses the secrets  and proven methods that put fish on the beach.  
Get a lot of hands- on help so that you too can be productive.
Save yourself five years of experimenting on your own. 
Bring your own waders, rain gear.  Bring your own rod/reel set up if you want to.  
A variety of premium quality 2-hand and single-handed rod/reel set-ups will be available for you to use at no extra charge. Flies are supplied.
A hot lunch will be served on the river.  
There will be a very short rest period after lunch.  

Meet at The Fly Fishing Shop at 7:00am for orientation.  Coffee and donuts will be served.
Arrive back at The Fly Fishing Shop at 6:00pm.
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Dates below: 6 students per class only!
First come, first served.